After five days of fashion shows in the capital, here is the word from the catwalks. Drop these phrases into your conversation and everyone will know you were on the front row. Even if you weren't (Cartner-Morley, 2013f).
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This collection was about flowers. "But when I say flowers – I'm not going to do, you know, roses, done to death, blah blah blah." Instead, it was "the sexual undertones of flowers", of anatomy and deflowering, which formed the starting point for the clothes. A visit to his Scottish high school brought back memories of art classes spent dissecting, examining and drawing buttercups and carnations. "I started thinking about how much we take flowers for granted, and how incredible they are, and how the female sexual organs have so much in common with the internal structure of a flower. When I was growing up, my mum always used 'flower' as her word for vagina – it's a Scottish thing. I prefer sex to be an undertone in my clothes, rather than too obvious, so I was interested in how flowers are graphic but concealed and suggestive at the same time." (Cartner-Morley, 2013e). Such is the level of concern that the BFC has made education the primary message of this LFW. "Our world-famous fashion colleges play a key role in what makes British fashion fantastic," says chief executive Caroline Rush. "When you talk to [star designer] Jonathan Saunders, he is very frank and straightforward that he wouldn't have been able to become a designer if he had been faced with the fees now being charged. We are really concerned that fees, and the cost of living in London where many colleges are based, will prevent the next generation of talented British students from non-privileged backgrounds from coming through." (Cartner-Morley, 2013d). The shift suggests Beckham – that mistress of glamour – may be loosening up a little. (Cronin, 2013). Show me a women who has no navy blue in her wardrobe and I'll show you a woman who lacks style. Seriously. The absence of black in a wardrobe is understandable – after all it can be draining and downbeat as much as it can be slimming and fierce. The absence of fashiony puce or pea green indicates common sense as much as it might signal a trend-of-whatever-season refusnik. But a lack of navy blue in all its inky, expensive-looking glory? That's a wardrobe nonsense. (Fox, 2013b). Fresh from the manicurist, many Instagram their new looks around the world. (Cartner-Morley, 2013). A friend told me that seeing these shirts everywhere was like being beaten up by someone wearing an anti-bullying wristband. (Harrison, 2013). The 40s trend began with fashion. "There's always been an underground vintage movement," Angel Adoree tells me over the phone. An early adopter, she started by selling clothes, and then moved into events, design and styling. "It used to be people who lived and breathed it but it's mass market now. It can be slightly annoying, especially when it's done badly, but I've had to embrace it." (Adoree in Linksey, 2013). There is little point in trying to legislate against what young people wear, though – heaven knows – many have tried. (Freeman, 2013e). The look: if Folk could sell beards, it probably would. This look is about facial hair, shaggy curls and comes with a pinch of tragic poet. The clothes have a traditional flavour – with cardigans and Proper Jackets popular – but it's brought up to date with vivid colour and sporty details. Cool young fogey sums it up, in the nicest possible way. |
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December 2013
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